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Today, I was very tired when I woke up, but I desperately wanted to use the computers, so I got up early. The water isn't working in the upstairs bathroom, which is sometimes frustrating, but not that big of a deal. After all my concerns about coming back to Orizaba, the family was very welcoming, and seemed glad to see me. I've noticed my abuela has been doing more smiling today, although I feel like my listening skills may have regressed. Sometimes I just feel so bad and so stupid when I can't understand what my family is saying. Then they start talking extra slow so I can understand them, which is nice of them, but it makes me feel even worse.
After using the computers and talking a little bit with Caro (Rebecca's sister), I went to class. After our break, we got to play Scrabble, in Spanish, of course, and although my team lost, we had a good time. Culture class was somewhat boring, and it was hard to listen to Mauricio talk for an hour, and while I understood, or pretty much got the gist of what he was saying, it was hard to take notes. After class, Andrés drove Rebecca, Nancy and I home and we had lunch. More soup (tomato), ham and mashed potatoes, plus a little avacado with lemon and salt, a mango and agua de limón. Afterwards, I went into the center of Orizaba with Nancy and my tía. We visited 2 shoe stores and about 3 fabric (tela) stores, known as "mercerías." In the dictionary it translates to "haberdashery" or "notions store." Interesting. I think there must have been 8 different mercerías in the center of Orizaba. I really enjoyed going into the stores and I learned some new words.
Later, we went to the theatre in Orizaba. The guards, or whoever was in charge of the building, were nice enough to let us in so I could see the insiede of the theater. It was built in the later 1800's and then rebuilt later after an earthquake. It was a very nice theatre, with a gorgeous chandelier made from Italian glass. And the stage was huge.
When we got back, I went upstairs to write
in my journals and Nancy came too. So in between writing, we talked about a
lot of stuff. In particular, we talked about her typical day/week. She explained
that she doesn't usually go out during the week, just Friday and/or Saturday
night. She said during the week she does homework and watches a lot of TV. On
Saturday she sleeps in and talks to her aunt, and Sunday she doesn't go out,
either. Also, apparently she sees a lot of her cousin, Lupita, who lives just
a couple of blocks away. It was really interesting, hearing from her what her
life is like. I tried to explain to her how the first week looked to all us
Juniatians, and how we were surprised that they did something everyday. Naturally,
I couldn't explain it that well in Spanish, but I think she got the idea. I
really would like her to feel free to do what she would normally do if I wasn't
around. I understand that the brothers and sisters want to show us what Orizaba
is like, all the interesting stuff, and want us to have a good time, but I know
I'd be ok just trailing Nancy around, and doing what she does, observing and
asking questions.
Yesterday, we played Bingo for the first hour and a half of Spanish class. It was ok. We all put in a peso to play each game and the winner got the money. I won about 10 pesos, which was cool. Culture class was a little hard to sit through, again. It's just that some of the information seems so random, and it's hard to pay attention really well. After class, I walked home with Caro and Rebecca and got lots of whistes, catcalls, and looks. When I got home, I ate lunch…rice (with bananas on top!), avacado, chicken, salad, tortillas and tortitas de zanahorrias. Oh, and of course, a mango. Good, as usual, although lunch was a little awkward without Nancy there. I didn't have anything to say and it was hard to understand the family. I'm not very good at making table conversation among people I don't know, in English, but it's even harder in Spanish. After lunch, I found a newspaper article for my Spanish class, and wrote in my journal.
At 5:10 I walked to Rebecca's house so that the 2 of us could take the bus to the school and then go to the art museum, at around 5:30. However, when we got to the school, Nadir informed us that the museum closed at 5:30. I was a little disappointed. I really wanted to go, but it's ok. I just have to learn to go with the flow here. So, instead of going to the museum, we went to a café and then some of us walked to "Gigante," a large grocery/department store, and I found a birthday card for my little sister, Caro. Of course, the whole time we were under the watchful eye of Noé. I felt sort of like one of a herd of stupid sheep, who was being carefully lead around so I wouldn't hurt myself or get lost. He kept making comments that women were bad drivers. Someone told me that Noé once said that a woman's place was to take care of the house and raise children, and that they weren't sure he was kidding. This is all very interesting and different for me. While a woman certainly shouldn't be limited to being a housewife, nurse or teacher, I think that if that's what she'd like to do, fine. In the US, I never felt like I was treated differently because I am a woman. I've never felt oppressed. I think somehow I didn't really believe that men existed, in developed countries, who honestly thought that women were only good for cooking, cleaning and having children (or at least I'd never met any). But I sense that things aren't quite the same here in Mexico. It's not that women are considered second-class citizens, exactly. Mauricio says they're considered equal, or even a little better than men. But if that's true (which I'm not sure about) it almost seems to mean that they are expected to take on more responsibilities (home and family, as well as a job, if their husband permits it) than men are. The fact is that seeing a woman driving in Orizaba isn't quite as common as seeing a man driving. Some people (for example, Noé) do think that women can't drive, and can't go anywhere on their own (although I will admit that they know their city better than I do, and I probably need to trust them if they say it's not safe to take the bus by myself at a certain hour). To a point, it's sort of nice that guys open doors for you, let you go first, give you their seat on the bus, hold your chair in a restaurant and walk between you and the street. But there's a point where it goes too far, when it seems like the guys are being good "caballeros" because they think we're helpless, not because they really respect us. I'd rather have their respect than their chivalry. But at least I am beginning to understand a little better that there are still places, even in developed, "modern" countries where women are not quite equal, or at least that there are still men who don't think of us as equal.
So anyway, after the supermarket, 9 of us piled into Noé's sedan…Shawn, Valerie, Carla, Erin, Katie, Jamie, Sarah and me, and Noé drove us all home, from Mendoza and Nogales to Fortín and Córdoba! Granted, it was very nice of him, but I think I could have taken the bus home. It was only 8 o'clock and not dark yet. And I've walked to Rebecca's house at 4:30 in the morning and walked back by myself at 11 PM. I guess, like I said, I have to trust them about what's safe and what's not safe in their city and it is nice of them to look out for us like that, but I did sort of wonder what Nancy would have said. I guess I just don't like being told that I can't do stuff, and that I'm incapable. I never realized how much I really valued my independence, before. It's so nice that Nancy's giving me a little more freedom now! So the ride was fun, though, and I got back home before Nancy did (around 10), so it wasn't too late.
This morning, a photographer from the local newspaper came to take our pictures. We got a kick out of it, because the photographer was making us all pose, just like senior pictures. We were supposed to take a group picture, too, but the photographer ran out of film and was going to come back during our break. Then, one Spanish class went to the center to buy books, so they didn't get back 'til 15 minutes into our break. Then, I don't know what happened, but we didn't end up taking any pictures. Some other day, I guess. I just hope that the pictures get in the paper before we leave because I'd really like to get a copy of that paper. It'd be cool to bring back a paper from Mexico, anyway.
My sister went home early, so Rebecca and I walked home together…this time the back way, instead of down the main street. It's a nice walk (and I think a few less whistles). When I got back, Nancy wasn't home. So I did a little journaling before lunch and had a conversation with my hermanita, Caro. She was showing me hair scrunciis and taught me the word for sticker. Lunch was good as usual. Soup (tomato), something like a corn dog (without the corn), tortillas, vegetables/potato/mayonnaise salad and stuffed zuccini, almost like the zucchini pizzas my mom makes at home. Except these were stuffed with a kind of bean (I think they called it soya) that had been seasoned so that it really tasted like sausage (even had the same texture), then cheese on top and they served it with tomato sauce (salsa de jítomate). It was very good.
After lunch, I sat in the living room for a while, doing homework and trying to stay somewhat part of the family. But after a little while I gave up and went upstairs, so I could lie down and write. I've been tired since I got back from Oaxaca. Maybe I'll go downstairs later. Some people were going to the theater at about 7, but I decided to stay home. They keep telling us that we shouldn't go out every afternoon, that that's not Mexican culture. Erin and I might go out tomorrow, depending on when she comes over, so I thought I should maybe stay home today. Besides that, I didn't know how my family would feel about me going out alone, and I didn't know when I'd be coming back. It was just easier to stay at home. It's just much harder here, where I don't have as much freedom, don't know my way around, and am trying desperately not to inconvenience or disrupt the schedule of my Mexican family. But I don't mind staying at home. This is a lot more like what I would have been doing if I was in the US right now. and I've started talking a lot more to my little sister, Caro. She's really so sweet. Today she was trying to explain a novella (soap opera) to me, and she was very anxious to share her roasted, salted almonds. I don't know if she's speaking slower of if I'm learning how to understand her better, or what, but it seems to me like I don't have to ask her to repeat things quite as often. And I think she's getting a little more patient with me when I don't understand. Anyway, she's just too sweet. Later this evening she brought down her roller-blade Barbie and a little bag of other toys, and was showing them all to me. Then she insisted that I could play with any of them while she was taking a bath. I was speechless. All I could say was "gracias," over and over again. I'm not so good at communicating with little kids in English, let alone in Español. I feel like, in some ways, I'm more on Caro's level, as far as Spanish skills. But I know she still has the advantage. It's funny, though, because once I got a better grasp of the language and could figure out what Caro was saying, I realized fairly quickly how much she's like a typical 4-year-old from the US. The cutest thing, though, was when she came upstairs after I'd told the family "goodnight," and told me that the correct response to "te duermas bien" is "igualmente." (I'd just been saying "gracias" because sometimes I get nervous when the family talks to me, and "gracias" was the first polite thing I could think of to say. After she explained that to me, I apologized, and she just said "No te preocupes." Just so sweet. And she had the guts and the innocence to do what no one else in my family would, correct me on a question of politeness and etiquette. Sometimes I think I just might start to break the ice with my family a day or 2 before I go, and then I'll want to stay longer because things have gotten better.
This morning we slept in a little. Either Nancy didn't have a class this morning, or she skipped it (probably the later). So I got there around quarter to 10. At which point, I learned that we're not going to Puebla until Saturday morning. More changes in plans. So I had to email my mom quick to tell her I wouldn't be able to get her call Sunday evening. Other than that, it doesn't really bother me, one way or another. I do feel really bad, though because Liz and some other people had plans to meet with UDLA students who were at Juniata last semester. But I think a number of people are leaving for Puebla tomorrow, so they'll still be able to meet with the UDLA students Friday evening. After class, and after much discussion, Erin decided to come to school between 11:30 and 12 tomorrow, because Nancy would be there for classes. I also made plans to go see more of the center of Orizaba with Liz, a really sweet girl and good friend of Christian. She's always been very friendly, always talked to me, wanted to know how things were going, even though she doesn't have an American "sister" or "brother."
So anyway, she stopped by the house around 5 and we walked all over Orizaba. It was nice because I saw a lot more of the city than I'd seen before. We visited maybe 5 churches, all gorgeous, inside and outside. We also went to an archeological museum in Orizaba, and I tried one of Don Felipe's famous hot dogs. Very good, and wrapped in something like bacon. I did a little window shopping, but didn't buy anything. Liz and I traded email addresses, so maybe we'll stay in touch after I leave.
When we got back (around 8), Nancy and I got ready to go out to Insomnia, the video bar I went to that first Friday night. It was pretty fun until most of the people I knew went to get something to eat. Then it was a little boring, but ok. But then, of course, there was some confusion with the money. Nadir said Noé had all of it, Noé said he was short. I still can't figure out why no one payed the bill before the majority of the group left to eat. So after a little karaoke singing, Katie "loned" someone 11 pesos, and we left. Nancy felt bad, and I did a little, too, mostly for Katie. But, honestly, I don't understand what's so hard about everyone putting down the money they owe, and then someone paying the bill. This always seems to happen when we go out and people are drinking. I didn't have anything to drink last night, not even a refresco, and it's not fair that people like Katie or I or Libby or Rebecca, should have to pay for the beer and tequila that other people are drinking. I was very tired when I got home, and glad to go to sleep. Hopefully it'll be sunny enough for me to wash my laundry tomorrow. I don't really need to bring it on the trip, but it'd be nice if I could, and this way I can wash my own laundry, and my family won't have to worry about it over the weekend.
I got up around 8:30 this morning. I think it was easier to sleep in because it was a little cooler last night. Of course Nancy was cold when she woke up. If it'd just been me in the room, I would have had the window open all week. Oh well, compromise is good for me. So she went off to school around 10, (a little before). I had chocolate milk and a little bread for breakfast, then got to washing my clothes. When I got up, I worried that it was too cloudy, but after asking Nancy and my madre, the verdict was that it was sunny enough. So I got my dirty clothes and started washing them. Quite an experience. The family (like most other families, I think), has a cement tub with a ribbed bottom, sort of like a wash board, and they wash their clothes by hand. They also have a centrifuge machine to drain the water out, but it's not working right now. So I have no idea if I was doing things right (I don't know too much laundry vocabulary to ask questions), and I'm not sure how clean the clothes really are, but they were washed and hung on the line on the roof. My madre gave me some liquid to put in water and then soak the clothes in. I think it might be fabric softener, or something similar, and I think it also makes clothes smell nice. The whole thing was definitely an experience, though. I've never tried to wash more than a sweater by hand. I'm sort of glad the family wasn't watching, because I didn't know what I was doing and must have looked awfully foolish. But I'm glad I did it because now my madre doesn't have to do it later, and both my madre and my abuela seemed pleased that I was washing my clothes. Both quite friendly and full of smiles this morning. My abuela seemed puzzled again when I asked to take a shower after I'd hung my clothes out, but there's nothing I can do about that. I just hope it doesn't rain for a while and that the sun comes out or there's a nice breeze or something. Not sure what I'll do if the clothes aren't dry by this evening. The family has no dryer. I guess maybe I could hang them in the bathroom, or something. I watched TV this morning until Erin and Nancy got home, then Erin and I watched TV together and talked until lunch time. We had lunch and Erin didn't eat a whole lot because she's been sick, and I feel bad for her, but I explained to my family why she couldn't eat much. I had frijolitos for lunch today (in addition to fried chicken, rice, and agua de limón). They were good, tortillas folded in quarters with frijoles in between and on top and cheese in between the layers. It was quite good. I never thought I'd like frijoles as much as I do. I also had "pay de queso" (a little like cheese cake, but not quite the same).
After lunch we walked into the center of Orizaba. It's definitely very cool that my family is ok with me going places without them. And Nancy didn't set a time I should be home, or anything. So Erin and I walked towards the center, stopping at some churches and to take pictures on the way. We visited the archaeological museum again and the painting exhibit in the teatro de llore. We also found the elusive post card store, but decided not to buy any postcards after all. Too expensive and not very nice, since the store pretty much has a monopoly. It started raining on the way back, but we had an umbrella, so it was fine. We also got popsicles on the way back, which were excellent and full of chocolate. My family was nice enough to take my clothes in when it started raining, and they were mostly dry by that point. So I did some ironing when I got back, and hung the really wet stuff over the banister to finish drying. The last time I have to do laundry here in Mexico! Not really sure how clean my clothes are. They'll all have to be thoroughly washed when I get home. I don't really trust my clothes washing skills. So now I'm back and I'm hanging around, writing in my journal, talking to Erin and eating her chocolate. I also talked to my sister a little.
When Erin went down to take a shower, I had some chocolate milk and sat with the family for a little bit. (Well, "the family" being Nancy, my madre, my tía and Caro), but it was nice. We talked and laughed. Caro was convinced to do a dance for me (a typical dance of the state of Veracruz that she's learning for a school program). My madre made Erin some tea, to help settle her stomach. It was really nice, one of the better times I've had with my family. After a little while, the family headed to bed, and Erin and I used the computer quickly. It was very slow, but that's ok. I mostly just wanted to make sure that my mom had gotten my letter, and knew I wouldn't be home Sunday night. She had and she's going to try to call me some other time. I hope I'm around when she calls because no one in my family speaks a word of English.
This morning, 6 AM came pretty early, but it was definitely better than getting up for Oaxaca. Erin and I walked to Rebecca's house and then walked to the church where we were meeting. I didn't sleep on the bus, it was too late. We watched another movie, called the Judas Kiss. A little bizarre, but it helped pass the time. When we got to Puebla, we went to la UDLA first, to pick up Liz, Sarah, Katie, Nik, Brandi and Eli. I sort of wish I could have seen at least a little of the university, but I'm glad Liz got to see it, since she'll be going there in August. She and Nik said it was really gorgeous. It was really interesting to see some of the Mexican students, here, in their own country, instead of at Juniata. Now the tables are turned and we're the ones who are strangers in their country. Being an exchange student definitely gives you a different view of things. I think if I ever have the opportunity to host an exchange student, or interact with one, I'll have a somewhat better appreciation for what they're going through.
After eating our bagged lunches at la UDLA, we went to a place called Cholula. There was a very large pyramid there, but it ws covered up, and a church had been built on top of it. Mauricio said the Spanish did it when they colonized Mexico to display their dominance. We walked through some very impressive tunnels underneath the pyramid, and then looked at some of the ruins which had been erected around the base of the pyramid. We climed the pyramid, but couldn't go up and look at the church. Apparently, there'd been a fairly strong earthquake in Puebla. The earthquake did some damage to the church and we weren't allowed to go in. But the whole thing was very impressive. One plaque we read was really sad, though. It identified one square, stone structure as an alter. Apparently during a severe drought, the people who constructed the pyramid sacrificed a number of children between 7 and 8 years old, trying to bring rain.
After Cholula, we went to a church called la Iglesia de Santa Maria Tonantzintla. It wasn't very big, but it was absolutely gorgeous inside. When we got there, a confirmation service was just wrapping up, and the girls all looked so beautiful in their dresses. Inside, the walls and ceiling were completely covered with colorful molding and decorated with gold. It was magnificent. I think what made it really wonderful, though, was that as we were going in, they were playing (or someone was singing) "Ave Maria." That's just really powerful music. It was really awe-inspiring to step into the church.
The next stop was lunch, a very nice (and cheap restaurant). I had mole poblano, a dish that's very typical of Puebla. It's chicken with a sauce made of beans, peanuts (chocolate?) and other things. A little bit spicy, but I'm glad I tried it. My mom would be proud of me and the spicy food I've been eating down here. The whole lunch experience was a good one. I had a good time talking and listening to conversations, although Lalo, Eli's little brother, kept talking in English. I don't know if he was trying to show off, practice his English, or really thought we couldn't understand. But we could, (for the most part) and I told him that once.
After lunch, we stopped at a talavera factory, before heading to the hotel. Unfortunately, they only give tours on Mondays through Fridays, so someone just briefly described the process for us. The stuff there was beautiful, and I'd love to get some of it, but it was very, very expensive.
After we got settled into our rooms, Erin, Liz, Sarah, Nik and I decided to head out and see if we could find a supermarket to buy snacks. The soccer game was on (Mexico vs. Ecuador) so most people decided to stay in and watch that, instead of going out to a disco or bar. We walked just a couple of blocks around the central park acroos from the hotel, but all we really found was a post card shop. That was good because Erin and I needed to find postcards, but it wasn't food, which was what we were looking for. The shop had posters of the New York City skyline, among other places, and at least 4 or 5 of them showed the twin towers. It was a weird, slightly creepy feeling.
When we got back to the hotel, I took a shower and wrote in my journal while watching TV. There wasn't much on, but I found a movie in Spanish that we could still understand. We did a lot of writing, and were going to watch the soccer game with everyone else, but we were just too tired. Before I fell asleep, Ecuador scored a goal. Later, judging by the shouts I heard, Mexico also scored.
Very early this morning I was alerted to the fact that Mexico won the game (2-1, I discovered later), by the sounds of horns and shouting in the streets. I wonder what would happen if they lost? I'm not sure I'd like to be around, if/when that happens.
I had breakfast at McDonald's, again. It's just easier and cheaper than eating at a more Mexican restaurant. After breakfast and getting everything packed on the bus, some of us went to see the cathedral just across the park from the hotel. It was very impressive. It had a huge bell tower. According to legend, no one could hang the giant bells, because the bell tower was too tall, so the bells were hung by angels. Thus, Puebla is known as "Puebla de los ángeles." Inside, it was even more impreesive. The organ would have filled at least half of the sanctuary of my church in Huntingdon. The ceilings were vaulted, the walls were beautifully sculpted, and decorated with gold. And just the size of the church was impessive. I did feel bad about going in, though. It was a Sunday morning and masses were going on. I kept thinking what it would be like if a bunch of tourists wandered into my church at home or the 15th St. Methodist church in Huntingdon, on a Sunday morning, during a worship service. No matter how quiet and respectful they were, it would still be a little wierd. But this just doesn't seem to phase the Mexicans.
After visiting the church, we went to see more ruins. They were very cool, like all the others. Walkways had been built all over them, so you could walk through without hurting anything. Also, there were a number of really interestingly-painted walls that had been preserved. Lots of color - reds and blues, mostly.
On the way back, we stopped at a mall to eat. The food court was crazy! Erin and I had to wander around for 10 minutes before we were able to grab a table someone had just vacated. We got one last look at Puebla, and also stopped at another mercado de artesanias before we headed back to Orizaba.
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